In this tutorial we will take a look at HDR photography. HDRI (High Dynamic Range Imaging) was originally in 3D and is now in full force in photography. In fact, it is the process in which multiple exposures and merging them together into a single 32-bit image. Let me explain: A camera is capable for the capture of a limited number of colors in a single photo. Normally we sacrifice elements in a photo, if we press the shutter button. For example, there is a powerful Cloudscape and some cliffs. If we set for the clouds to the cliffs dark. If we look at the camera exposure to capture detail in the rocks, the sky is lighter and blown detail is lost. This is because the human eye can see a wider range of tones as the camera can capture on the chip or film in a single photo.
The solution is more than a photograph bracket and the photos. Shoot normal exposure, then under-expose a shot to capture highlights and on-set a shot to capture shadow detail. Finally, merge these photos together to create a single image with a wider range of tones, which now show all the details in the shadows and highlights. This tutorial shows you how to perform this operation with minimum fuss.
First, we must continue our source images. (You could start with a 32-bit 3D image and then go to step 6). Normally, we will capture them with our camera. You need a minimum of 2 photos with different exposure settings.
His recommended by Adobe to limit the exposure bracketing until 1 Stop, and this will help to strip education. You can also use the 5 or more shots with a smaller gap in the bracketing. I personally get good results from 3 shots. I want to expose and Exposé 2 stops. I know this is a parenthesis bigger than most people are comfortable with, but also for the nature of the HDR-like images I create (city view), it works great. If your shooting people, you can reduce that this is even 3rd Stops.
(Note: You can not start with a single RAW image and exposure it several times, as some people suggest, for a true HDR photo. This is known as pseudo-HDR. Photoshop will not allow you to merge these, because it not enough detail recorded sound).
For more information, see the new video-HDR and Photoshop
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Start with 3 images. A normal exposure, the second underexposed and the third overexposed. In this case, I have 2 STOP-bracketing. As I shoot a lot of city scapes I can away with 2 stops, because I'm shooting mainly flat surfaces and strip Education and posterization is not as a problem. If your shooting round and curved surfaces you want to lower your bracketing to smooth gradient.
I have the bracketing of my camera to 2 stops. Then I got the recording mode to burst. When I press the shutter button down, 3 photos are captured. I shoot in RAW mode for the widest possible dynamic range. You can still create HDR if the camera does not support RAW. Make sure you shoot in Aperture Priority or in the manual. They want to bracket the time of exposure, not the Aperture. If you use the aperture, depth of field is not consistent and get blurred. Also moving any motives in the photo or get ghost images.
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Time to use the images together into a single 32-bit image.
Choose File> Automate> Merge to HDR. This works on Photoshop CS2 and CS3. (CS2 is not the automatic alignment). Select either pictures or a folder. I organize any group of photos in a separate folder so I the folder option. Select your photos to merge. Turn you straightening car in Photoshop CS3. Click OK. (Photoshop CS3 uses new auto-align technology, which also allows you to create HDR without the use of a tripod! )
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Their images are now merged into a single photo. You can use the various photos of UN control their fields on the left side strip of film. If you have some blur caused by camera shake in the longest exposure, you can disable that photo.
some blurring caused by camera shake in the longest exposure, you may want to turn off that photo.
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The combined result is a floating-point-32-bit image. You can search the whole tones, the white point slider. Just with her, a little movement goes a long way!
to merge the photos into a 32 bit image. Now is a good time to save your file.
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Click OK to display the photos in a 32-bit image. Now is a good time to save your file.
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In order to use the photos, you must convert them t 16 or 8-bit images. If we convert them, we will, as I call interpretations of the photos. The reason I say that is because we have unlimited possibilities, we can look like the photo. While we have this tremendous momentum in 32-bit, we will no longer have those options after the conversion. Always work from the stored 32-bit version, and then convert and save versions (personal interpretations). Avoid over the 32-bit image, it is our captain and we want May back to it many times.
Choose Image> Mode> 16-bit (or 8-bit). Now we get to play with some fun options. You are now on the tone mapping part of the process. This is all the creativity can seep.
(If you want to make sure that adjustments without conversion, choose View> 32-bit preview options. You can have several tools in Photoshop image-> Settings menu. The most important of which is the control of exposure)
You will see a dialog box HDR conversion. Exposure and Gamma is the default option. Best way to approach this? Set the gamma first, then adjust the exposure to. If you want a picture with a lot of contrast, lower the gamma. For less contrast, the gamma. Finally, adjust the exposure to the desired brightness. If you want more control, read on ... Otherwise, press OK to convert.
adjust the exposure to get the desired brightness. If you want more control, read on... otherwise press OK to convert.
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Change the method for local adaptation. (There are 4 methods available, but these are the only 2 with user input).
With local adaptation, you can use the curves. Set them as you would normally work in curves, but do not be afraid to clip the histogram a bit. You can clip, because your work with a greater dynamic range than you are used to. Bring the details in the picture, but do not forget a few shadows in it or it will be washed and counterfeiting. Once your satisfied with the curve, adjust the Radius and Threshold controls to ensure there are no halos on the photo. (Bad converted HDR images have a ticket around the areas of contrast.) Radius controls the Unsharp Mask, while the threshold decides what is blurred and what not.
Click OK to convert.
Click ok to convert.
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Here we have a concentration of HDR image. The second image is a variant. In the second variant, I have exposure, curves and sharpness settings, while in 32-bit mode (Mark compression method). Photoshop is great for the manufacture of very realistic HDR-images.
2-bit mode (Highlight Compression Method). Photoshop is great for producing very realistic HDR images.
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If your desire for a more surreal result, there are various plug-ins that you can use. My favorite is Photomatix Pro HDRsoft. You can only change the tone mapping plug-in for Photoshop, the great works. Use the coupon code photoshopcafe to save 15%.
With photomatix tone mapping module allows you to very detailed textures in your photos. They merge into Photoshop as in this tutorial. Then select Filter> Photomatix to apply sound mapping. Convert and save as normal.
l. Then choose Filter>Photomatix to apply tone mapping. Convert and save as normal.
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This image shows a picture after tone-mapping with Photomatix Pro.
s image shows an image after tone mapping using Photomatix pro.
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Here you can see comparisons between a single image, subtle Photoshop HDR and Photomatix a radical effect (Click for larger image). Whatever your earnings after, hopefully this tutorial has helped demystify the HDR process.
Whatever result your after, hopefully this tutorial has helped demystify the HDR process.
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Here is another HDR shot of me. This is a night scene converted to grayscale.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!
Colin source:photoshopcafe.com
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